WHALE TAIL

By Steve Chism

      It would be almost impossible to tell a "Whale Tail" of the Cape Region,  Baja California Sur without mentioning the California Gray Whale, so we will start with him.  The Gray is probably the most numerous, most observable, most predictable of all whales that appear on both the Pacific and Sea of Cortez sides of the Cape Region. Gray's are usually seen first on the Pacific side.  They will start entering the Sea of Cortez about December 1st.  Not many at first but increasing in number daily.

      The best time of the year to see whales is from early December to mid April. There are 16 different whales and 8 different dolphins that use the waters around the Cape Region, with a possible 3 or 4 more that stray into the area at times. There are some whales in the Cape Region waters all year, but the chances of seeing them after the winter months is very slim.  In the Buena Vista area where I live the first whales usually show up right around New Year's.        

     Buena Vista is located on Bahia de Palmas in the East Cape area.  We have access to Los Planes and La Paz on the north and Cabo Pulmo, Los Frailes and San Jose Del Cabo on the south via the "Coast Road".  There are many places in both directions with access to the beach or close along the beach with higher elevations where you can stop and watch, or wait, for whales to pass. 

     Whales will pass as close as thirty yards from the beach In many places on both sides of  the Cape Region.  On the Pacific side there are several good overlooks with beach access between Cabo San Lucas and Todos Santos. There is also a road that runs for many miles behind the beach dune from Todos Santos north.  Although your view of the Pacific is blocked by the dune you can stop and climb to the top of the dune (about 200 yards) where the view is spectacular!  You'll see miles of empty beach and open ocean.  Maybe even some whales!

      An alternative to beach watching whales is to charter a fishing boat.  Explain to your captain that fishing is not your primary concern and that you want to see whales and dolphins.  These guys are out there on a regular basis and if there are whales or dolphins around they know basically where they are.  Your skipper can also get on the radio and have other boats in the area let him know if they spot a whale.  This increases your chances a great deal.  If you also put out 2 or 3 trolling lines while you're searching you might even catch dinner!

      Whales and dolphins are attention getters even when they're just cruising!  If a whale barely breaks the water and "blows" people will stop and watch.  If a school of dolphin slowly passes by, people will watch.  When a whale or two or 200 to 300 dolphins decide it's "Show Time", everyone is glued to the scene.  If a whale breaches people start to count how many times.  If a whale pounds the water with his tail or flipper people count.  When a large school of dolphins decide to play in the air they perform with long horizontal leaps, vertical jumps, belly flops, back flops flips and "tail walking".  Your head needs to be on a swivel to keep track of what's going on around you!   And then, just as fast as it started, it all stops. Nobody dims the lights or makes an announcement.  It just stops!  People are quietly sitting or standing around.  It's like they expect an encore.  Then, after about 4 or 5 minutes things get back to normal.

      Now, for a couple of Close Encounters with dolphins and whales.  One winter day several years ago I walked out on the dining room terrace of the Hotel Buena Vista Beach Resort.  It was a perfect day...clear, warm and calm.  A relief after the last 7 days of strong north winds!  I sat down to drink a cup of coffee.  Then I looked north toward Punta Pescadero and there it was again!  A "wind line" building out from the point!  I watched for awhile as the "wind line" got bigger and closer.  But, it looked kinda funny.  There were flashes here and there in the white water coming our way.  And there was no breeze on the Hotel terrace.  Then I went to get a pair of binoculars. By the time I got back, the "wind line" was south of Punta Pescadero and almost to Los Barriles. Still no breeze!  As I looked through the binoculars, I saw  dolphins...miles of them! I ran back to the Hotel Boat Yard and got Juan (Mickey) Castro to help me put the work boat in the water so we could go take a look.  The dolphins were almost  upon us and still coming around Punta Pescadero.  We put the boat out through the dolphins.  They were everywhere...around the boat, under the boat and in the air.  I was standing in the center of the boat looking back at the dolphins when I glanced down at Mickey who had the tiller.  His eyes were as big as coffee cups!  I turned around to look forward and saw the point of the bow aimed straight down a row of "knobs" on the back of a whale who was headed down under the boat.  I was too stunned to grab hold of something or even sit down.  I watched as the back of the whale kept coming.  We passed right over the top of the whale without getting hit.  After this, we didn't talk for a few minutes.  We decided that we'd seen enough for the day.  I watched the dolphins a little longer after we got back on the beach.  They were still coming north from Punta Pescadero moving across the Sea of Cortez as far as you could see to the south.  The whole episode lasted about four hours.  I've never seem anything like that before of since.

 Another Close Encounter with a whale happened more recently.  Two old friends who had spent the winter in a local trailer park decided one morning to go fishing.  It was a perfect day in mid-March, 1999.  These guys fished all day from a 14 foot aluminum boat equipped with at 25 hp motor.  In the afternoon they picked up their gear and headed for home.  About one-half mile from the beach up in the air they went!  They had driven up the back of a surfacing whale that  was crossing in front of them.  When the boat went up on the whale's back it was spun around 180 î.  As it headed back into the sea the force tossed the older of the two fishermen to the side and over the rail, landing with his hands on the whale. He managed to push himself back into the boat. No one was hurt.  Nothing was lost or damaged.  Although there WAS a little water in the boat the fishing tackle and other boating equipment had only been rearranged.  The two friends did see the whale again, apparently unaffected,  when he surfaced and "blew" about 400 yards away from them, heading south. On many mornings from mid January to the end of February small schools of large dolphin  pass along the East Cape beaches heading south.  At times they are as close as 10 yards. One morning, when I saw them coming, I went to the beach and launched a kayak to see how close I could get.  By the time I was ready they were already past and would not wait for me to catch up.  This happened several times and I had about given up ever getting close.

But one morning my luck changed. I saw a school of dolphin coming in time to get a kayak into the water and was already headed south when the dolphins caught up with me this time.  There were ten curious animals.  They made passes and swirls all around the kayak, sometimes very close.  The kayak and I together weigh about 170 Lbs.  These animals are about 500 Lbs each and 8' to 9' long.  A bit intimidating!  On other occasions, when I was quick enough to be in front of them, they would come to the kayak to look and play.  Twice, actually, they bumped the kayak.  Other times they would just move out, pass on by and keep going.  They have never waited for me to catch up if I got a late start. 

Another thing about being in a kayak is that you are right down at water level with them.  If you notice that the animals are starting to leave, take  your hand or paddle and slap the surface of the water several times.   Sometimes they will come back to see what's happening.  This will also work with smaller fish that come around the kayak. I got

If you go hunting a school of dolphins and whales using a fishing boat, watch the Bow wake for "surfers".  When this happens, move out to the Bow and lay down.  Hang your head over the side and talk or yell at the dolphins.  Many times they will roll on their side and look you in the eye as if to say, "What a screwball you all are!"  It will give your skipper the same impression!

WHALES THAT APPEAR IN THE CAPE REGION

Gray Whale

   Range:  From the Beafort, Bering and Chukchi Seas in the north to the Sea of

Cortez, the Baja Peninsula, Mexico.

Blue Whale

   Range:  From the Chukchi Sea in the north to Panama in the south.

Fin Whale

     Range:  From the Bering Sea in the north to the Sea of Cortez.

Sei Whale

     Range:  From the Alaskan Gulf to the Revillagegido Islands south of the Baja

Peninsula, Mexico.

Brydes Whale

   Range:  From the United States/Mexico Border to Panama.

Minke Whale

     Range:  From the Chuckchi and Bering Seas to the Equator.

Humpback Whale

   Range:  From the Bering Sea to Panama.

Sperm Whale

   Range:  From the Bering Sea to the Equator.

Pygmy Sperm Whale

   Range:  From the United States/Canada border to the Sea of Cortez.

Dwarf Sperm Whale

   Range:  From California to the Sea of Cortez.

Baird's Beaked Whale

    Range:  From the Bering Sea to Latitude 24î north.  (at the

northern edge of what is known as the Cape Region of the Baja Peninsula)

Cusier's Beaked Whale

   Range:  From the Bering Sea to the Equator.

Killer Whale

   Range:  From the Chuckchi Sea to the Equator.

False Killer Whale

   Range:  From Canada to northern South America.

Melon Headed Whale

   Range:  Estimated from the United States/Mexico border to

northern South America.

Short Finned Pilot Whale

   Range:  Estimated from the United States/Canada border to

northern South America.

DOLPHINS THAT APPEAR IN THE CAPE REGION

Rough Toothed Dolphin

   Range:  From California south throughout the tropics.

Bottlenose Dolphin

   Range:  From California to Chile.

Striped Dolphin

   Range:  From the Bering Sea to northern South America.

Pantropical Spotted Dolphin

   Range:  From the central part of the Baja Peninsula to northern

South America.

Spinner Dolphin

   Range:  From the central part of the Baja Peninsula to northern South

America.

Common Dolphin

   Range:  From Canada to the Equator.

Pacific White Sided Dolphin

   Range:  From alaska to the Sea of Cortez.

Risso's Dolphin

   Range:  From the Gulf of Alaska to Cape Horn.û